How to Solve Carburetor Float Problem

It can always occur in our life that you are driving along just fine and suddenly, your exhaust system begins to belch black smoke. When you turn off the engine and look under the hood, you find fuel dripping from the carburetor throat. In practice, this problem may be caused by a stuck carburetor float. Fortunately, you can take steps to get the carburetor working again temporarily, until you can open up the carburetor and fix the float permanently.
If your are on the road, then, you must need a temporary repair to drive your vehicle again.
Open the hood and locate the carburetor body. Tap the top of the carburetor gently but firmly with a small hammer or screwdriver handle. Tap the bowl of the carburetor firmly. This may loosen a stuck float valve, allowing the float to work properly until you can fix the problem permanently.
Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the carburetor bowl with a wrench or a pair of locking pliers if the problem persists. Place a pan under the carburetor to catch the draining fuel. The pressure of the fuel flowing through the carburetor should free the float.
Remove the drain plug in the carburetor throat. Spray carburetor cleaner into the throat and let it drip out of the carburetor bowl drain with the fuel. The carburetor cleaner will dissolve dirt and deposits blocking the float's movement or clogging the float needle.
Replace the drain plugs. If the carburetor was flooded, let the vehicle sit for an hour or two before starting it.
Are you felicitating that you have already solved the problem yet? Actually, you are too early to be cheerful. You just temporarily resolved the problem, and if you do not get further repair, it will occur again sooner or later. So, when driven home, make a permanent repair of your carburetor float.
Turn off the flow of fuel to the carburetor by closing a valve or clamping the line with vise grips. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the drain plug on the carburetor bowl and let the fuel drain into a container. Loosen the bolts holding the carburetor bowl to the carburetor body. Remove the bowl, exposing the carburetor float.
Place the point of a pick or very small Phillips screwdriver against the edge of the pin holding the hinges of the carburetor float. Tap the pick or screwdriver gently with a small hammer to push the end of the pin free. Grasp the end of the pin with a pair of pliers and carefully pull it lose from the float's hinges. Remove the float. Check that the needle valve is sitting in the notch on the float. If it's not with the float, retrieve it from the needle seat. Inspect the needle valve for wear and replace it if necessary.
Spray the float, pin and needle valve liberally with carburetor cleaner and scrub them with a toothbrush or lint-free cloth. Clean the valve seat with a cotton swab soaked with carburetor cleaner. Examine the float for holes or other damage and replace it if necessary.
Place the needle valve in the notch on the float and position the float correctly against the carburetor body. Replace the pin that holds the float hinge together and tap it carefully into place with the hammer.
Check the gasket on the carburetor bowl and replace it if necessary. Put the bowl on the motorcycle carburetor body and tighten the bolts that hold it in position. Restart the flow of fuel to the carburetor and check for leaks. Reconnect the battery.

Carburetor Needle Valve Adjustment

 You know, mechanical slide and constant velocity carburetors used on motorcycles use a needle valve to control fuel flow through the main jet. The tapered needle is fastened in the slider portion of the upper carburetor and it slides down into the main fuel tube. And the taper on the needle determines how much fuel can be drawn into the intake stream. The needle position corresponds to throttle setting, all the way into the tube for idle, and sliding most of the way out of the tube for wide-open throttle. Carburetor needles may be adjusted to lean out the main fuel circuit, or make it more rich. In general, raising the needle in the slider will make the air and fuel mixture more rich, while lowering the needle will lean it out.
To adjust carburetor needle valve, you should first get mechanic's tools and needle-nose pliers on hand. Only with good tools, can you do a perfect work.
Then, the first step is to remove the top of the carburetor. Turn the carburetor top mounting bolts counterclockwise until they are removed, then lift the top and slider from the carburetor body.
Next, remove the needle retainer from the slider. Push the needle up into and then out of the slider. Remove the locator clip on the needle with the pliers. And replace the locator clip in a lower slot to raise the needle and make the mixture more rich, or in a higher slot to lower the needle and lean the mixture out.
Then, re-install the needle in the slider and replace the retainer clip. Guide the needle and slider back into the carburetor body, ensuring that the needle slides easily into the main fuel tube. Re-install and tighten the carburetor top cap bolts to factory specifications for your make and model of bike.
Finally, test run the engine. Sneezing and popping back through the carburetor at high RPMs indicates a lean mixture and too low a setting on the needle. While excessive black smoke in the exhaust indicates a rich mixture and too high a needle setting. If these are the situations, you then need to repeat the steps to correct the needle position.
What is more, when adjusting needle valve, you have to always keep warning that the needle is a fairly delicate piece of metal, so you must take care to not bend or change the shape of the needle in any way. www.zjautoparts.net will show you more information.

Components of A Motorcycle Carburetor

Generally speaking, if the engine is considered the heart of a car, then the carburetor is the soul of the engine. The carburetor is responsible for supplying the right mix of vaporized fuel and air to make the engine work. It is a driver's direct link to the internal combustion engine: Push on the gas pedal and it is the carburetor's job to make the car go faster. Conversely, carburetors can be adjusted if a car is not getting enough power.
Basically, a carburetor system works on three basic principles: metering the correct proportion of fuel and air, atomization of the fuel into a vapor, and the distribution of a uniform mixture of both fuel and air into the engine. Then, when fuel reaches the carburetor, it flows through the fuel supply pipe and into a float bowl. Fuel then flows through the fuel jet into the other side of the carburetor. This side includes an air entry point, also known as the barrel or throat at which there is an air filter, a Venturi pipe, a tube which varies in width and the throttle valve.
Well, the term "float system" is used to describe a typical carburetor's operation. Fuel flows through the inlet fitting and through a seat, then pass the end of the needle and into the float bowl. The needle is important because as the bowl fills up, the float pushes the needle into the needle seat, cutting off the fuel. As a result, the fuel stays constant.
The fuel jet is also called the main nozzle. The metering jet, a calibrated opening on the bottom of the float bowl, determines the amount of fuel that will move into the engine. The metering jet opens into a main well which contains air bleeds and baffles that turn the fuel into a vapor as it moves up the main nozzle in a vacuum process, and into the Venturi pipe.
The Venturi pipe is so named because it operates on the Venturi effect. A vacuum is created in the pipe based on how much air is rushing through the carburetor's air entry. The narrow main nozzle moves the fuel into the Venturi pipe by means of low pressure which pulls it out of the nozzle. This spray is then pushed toward the throttle valve.
Commonly, the throttle valve is placed between the spray and the inlet pipe which leads to the engine. There are two types of throttle valves: the butterfly, which is a circular disc and the cylindrical which is as large as the inlet pipe and rotates. The throttle is controlled by the accelerator, with cables or rods attached to the throttle by a lever. Although the accelerator controls the engine speed, variations made to the throttle valve can be made to enhance a car's performance.
At present, there are several different types, configurations, and manufacturers of carburetors available based on what kind of performance is needed. Different configuration variations include two and four barrel types for more airflow, accelerator pumps, high-flow needles and vacuum secondary diaphragms, just to name a few.Get more gas pipe information to http://www.zjautoparts.net/.

How to Properly Clean A Carburetor

How to clean a motorcycle carburetor? Most people may think this is a difficult work, however, it is not true. In fact, as long as you grasp a few important principles and basic cleaning steps, can you do a perfect carburetor cleaning job. Well, this paper will tell you how to properly clean your carburetor.
Generally, the first step is to remove the carburetor from the vehicle and drain most if not all the fuel from it, you can also remove the fuel lines and vent lines at this time. Then, flip over the carburetor and remove the bowl, which is attached to the carburetor with usually 3 or 4 Phillips screws on the bottom. Once removed, you can now see the internals of your carburetor. If the inside of the bowl is dirty, you know that you carburetor inside are likely to be as well.
Now that you are inside the carburetor, you can remove the float. It is held in by the pin, that can be pushed through and the float will lift out. You can see at this point if the float isn't moving freely, you could have a sticky float resulting in excessive flooding of the engine. So make sure this is working freely on re-install.
Well, it’s time to clean out your jets. First you can remove the high speed jet (the one with the slot on top). It is removed with a flat screwdriver. Once removed you can look at it against a light and see if it is clogged or not. If this is you can soak it for a minute in engine degreaser and then hit it with compressed air to blast out the debris. This may need to be done a few times until fully clear of dirt. Once cleaned, re-install it and make sure not to tighten excessively. The next is the main jet. It is usually the one sticking up higher, and usually a hex headed 1/4" brass jet. You need turn it out of the carburetor and inspect for a clogged passage. The same as the high speed jet, you can soak it in degreaser and blast it with compressed air as well. Repeat that to make sure it is cleaned right out. Look down the passage where the main jet came from and blast air down to clean it out as well. Now you can re-install the main jet.
Check now to make sure your choke lever and butterfly are working properly and not sticking or hesitant. Remove linkage and lubricate to help in ease of operation. Clean intake of the carburetor so no debris gets into the engine.
Then, you can blow the compressed air through all passageways in the carburetor to make sure no more clogs are in there. Do all the jets, intake ports, idle ports, overflow ports and where ever you can blow the air. Blow the whole carburetor out to loosen and remove all the tiny particles of debris.
OK, the internals have been all cleaned out, you can now clean out the bowl and underside of the carburetor to make sure no more dirt gets back through your freshly cleaned carburetor. You can soak the bowl in some degreaser to loosen some stuck on dirt. Be sure to wipe and clean all dirt at this stage so that no more gets inside. This will later help in less problems with clogged up internals.
And now, re-install the float and pin. In this stage, you should spray a little lubrication on the pin and where it meets the float will help so much. Push the pin through the post coming from the carburetor and through the float mount and back through the other side post. No need to fasten it there because once the bowl is installed it will hold it all together.
If you have done all these, you can re-install your bowl and fasten it with three Phillips screws, make sure not to over tighten and strip these. Once re-installed, check final operation of the choke and blow last bits of dirt away. You can also hear the float moving if you shake it easily. And once all cleaned, you can install your fuel lines and vent hoses. Then, you have done the cleaning.

Cleaning A Two Cycle Carburetor

OK, it’s time to blow off any dirt or other debris from the outside of the carburetor, being careful not to allow it into the throttle body in the process. Brush any stubborn dirt off with a soft bristle parts brush, you can also use a solvent like carburetor or choke cleaner or brake cleaning solvent to make the job easier.
Then, remove the screw from the diaphragm cover plate and pry the cover off, while being careful not to deform the metal housing or damaging the gasket. You can now ease the edge of the diaphragm up a little to look for dirt or debris underneath it in the fuel channels and the small reservoir. If debris is visible, use canned compressed air to blow it out. And using solvent to dissolve any gum or varnish only if needed.
Re-install the cover plate when you are satisfied the area underneath the diaphragm is clear. However, for carburetors that have a large, visible build up of varnish or gum underneath the diaphragm, you may have to remove it completely, but in this case, you will probably need to buy a rebuild kit with new parts, as damage to the diaphragm is likely to occur while removing it.
Next, remove the carburetor base to access the internal screen (or fuel filter). Again, remove the four screws, and pry the cover gently off of the carburetor. If you damage the gasket, you will need to purchase a replacement, so be careful. Look into the larger hole near where the main fuel supply line connects to the carburetor. If you see varnish buildup or trash in the screen, use a solvent (carburetor or choke cleaner) to dissolve it. For heavy buildup, you may need to fill a small, clean solvent proof container with solvent and soak the complete assembly for a short time to dissolve it.
Also, it is necessary to use a tube applicator on your aerosol can of solvent to blow out the ports the the carburetor housing. You can as well spray solvent through the tubes where the fuel lines connect to the housing. Then, blow out the excess solvent and any remaining debris from the carburetor housing and ports with compressed air, and inspect the whole assembly to make sure it is spotlessly clean.
Well, after everything have done, reassemble the cover, and you must make sure all of the screws are tightened snugly. And then, re-install the carburetor by reversing the removal steps found earlier in the article. Finally, never forget to test run the engine before you turn to practical use.learn more to zjautoparts.net.

Cleaning A Two Cycle Carburetor

Generally, two cycle engines like string trimmers and leaf blowers are simple and light weight power devices that normally give good service with a minimum of maintenance. However, ethanol blended fuels, contaminated gasoline, and poor fuel storage can result in a dirty carburetor, and then make them difficult to start and almost impossible to keep running. Well, fortunately, here are some steps to help you clean your two cycle engine's carburetor if the need should arise.
Firstly, it is important to make sure you have a clean, well lit work area and some proper tools before you begin. Because these devices have small fasteners and parts which must be kept clean and safe while you work on them, and some have special fasteners that are difficult to remove without the right tools.
Then, when the preparation is done, it’s time to begin cleaning the carburetor. The first step is to brush or use compressed air to clean the outside of the engine and the air cleaner housing. This will make it easier to keep the internal parts of the carburetor clean while disassembling it.
Next, remove the air cleaner housing. It may be attached with clips or screws, you should be able to locate them by inspecting the housing visually. If you cannot remove the housing on the engine you are working on, you’d better consult the owner's manual or search specific information online.
And then, remove the fasteners that hold the carburetor onto the engine. There are usually two threaded studs with nuts and washers that serve this purpose. Be careful not to drop these nuts in an inaccessible location beneath the powerhead.
Now, disconnect the throttle and choke linkages from the carburetor, and remember to note how they fasten and where each one is attached. Besides, if there is a spring clamp, be sure that you do not overstretch it while removing it.
Go on, remove the fuel lines from the nipples connecting them to the carburetor housing. You can usually grip them gently with needle nose pliers and work them free. If clamps are used to attach them, remove the clamps prior to trying to remove the fuel lines.
Pull the motorcycle carburetor off of the mounting studs, being careful not to damage the gasket that seals the carburetor throat to the engine. Again, note the position of the carburetor, most are symmetrical, so they can be re-installed upside down, and the aforementioned linkages and fuel lines will not fit if that is the case.

How to Select Zjautoparts Power Washer Nozzle

As with all spray nozzles there is often a bewildering array of products on the market with different flow rates, spray angles and design types. Often expert advice will be required to make the final selection but prior to calling an expert supplier its is best to consider the following
Black Nozzle: Uses a wider spray and lower PSI for soap application.
zjautoparts offers several nozzles for use with your pressure washer, giving you a choice of spray angles and pressures that work best for your cleaning task.
Degrees of washing:
0° Red Nozzle: Used for blasting hard to clean items such as caked mud, tar, glue, stubborn stains and much more.
15° Yellow Nozzle: Used for paint preparation, removing dirt from construction or farm equipment, removing growth from boats and marine equipment, etc.
25° Green Nozzle: Used for standard cleaning/washing to remove general mud, dirt and grime from surfaces.
40° White Nozzle: Used for light cleaning and rinsing of automobiles, boats, roofs, windows etc.
Nozzle selection
Are there any constraints on the materials of construction?
Nozzles can be made in many different materials but not all types can be made from all materials. So, for example, if spraying at high temperatures plastic nozzles may not be suitable.
What flow rate is required?
The nozzle supplier you select will need to understand how much fluid you are looking to deliver per minute in order to select a suitable nozzle. If flow rates are very low then this may necessitate the use of air atomising nozzles which means as compressed air supply will be required in the system.
Are there any space constraints?
A flat fan need space to spread out. If there is very limited space between the feed pipe and the target then this may necessitate wide angle spraying or deflection type nozzles.
Is the environment cause blockages?
This may well affect the choice of nozzle. Elliptical orifice nozzle are cheap and easy to maintain but they are the most prone to clog and block. It may be a false economy to go with the basic option if clogging is likely. A good nozzle supplier will be able to advise accordingly.
How viscous is the fluid?
The spray angles and atomisation statistics given in nozzle brochures will be for spraying water. For more viscous fluids the angles produced will generally be lower and so may need to be compensated for. A quality nozzle supplier will have software that will calculate this difference but they will need to know the specific gravity and viscosity of the fluid in order to make the calculations for you.
Ask the experts
There are many flat fan nozzles on the market so if there is any uncertainty it's probably best to consult with a quality manufacturer. As the spray nozzle business is fairly niche it is likely that a good supplier will be able to deal in small quantities so buying directly from the manufacturer in quantities of 1's or 2's is not uncommon.
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