As a matter of fact, every model carburetor parts
is slightly different, but the basic principles apply to all.
Therefore, if you want to clean or rebuild a carburetor, you just meed
to know that basic steps. After all, the specific maintenance of
carburetor can be done by professionals.
With this issue we begin a series on making the fine adjustments so that a carburetor will operate at its optimum ability. But before any adjustments can be made, problems have to be solved, and that includes locating and sealing air and vacuum leaks anywhere in the engine, and cleaning the carburetor thoroughly, replacing damaged or questionable parts, and re-installing the carburetor on the car.
If the car shows symptoms of poor idling, hesitant acceleration, stalling, lack of power, rough running or backfiring, the problem must be isolated and corrected. Begin with the electrical system. Check the wires, the points, the grounds, the condenser, the distributor cap and the spark plugs to be sure that all parts are in good condition and performing as expected. Often an electrical problem will manifest itself in a way similar to a fuel problem. When you are assured that all is well with the electrical, move on to the fuel.
First thing to check is that whether there is an uninterrupted supply of gasoline to the carburetor. Irregular or interrupted fuel delivery can be caused by a clogged pick-up filter within the gas tank, a plugged or dirty in-line or in-carburetor filter, a crimped fuel line, a defective or leaking fuel pump, a leak at the vacuum tank, or even an empty, or near empty fuel tank.
Check the entire engine for vacuum leaks. An open vacuum line, such as a cracked line, a line plug that has come loose, or a disconnected line, can all allow air to enter the engine and cause a lean condition. You can often locate vacuum leaks by sound a ‘whooshing’ sound or by selectively spraying engine starting fluid or brake cleaner around the suspected leak. Pay attention, and don’t neglect the intake manifold gasket, the carburetor base, and joints between sections of the carburetor and the windshield wiper line.
Next, check and tighten the lines and screws on the vacuum tank. Follow each vacuum line to be sure that it is connected or plugged. If it feels loose, hard, or is otherwise suspect, replace the line and then again check with the aerosol spray. You may sometimes find that the entire rough idling problem is not the carburetor but just an open vacuum line.
With this issue we begin a series on making the fine adjustments so that a carburetor will operate at its optimum ability. But before any adjustments can be made, problems have to be solved, and that includes locating and sealing air and vacuum leaks anywhere in the engine, and cleaning the carburetor thoroughly, replacing damaged or questionable parts, and re-installing the carburetor on the car.
If the car shows symptoms of poor idling, hesitant acceleration, stalling, lack of power, rough running or backfiring, the problem must be isolated and corrected. Begin with the electrical system. Check the wires, the points, the grounds, the condenser, the distributor cap and the spark plugs to be sure that all parts are in good condition and performing as expected. Often an electrical problem will manifest itself in a way similar to a fuel problem. When you are assured that all is well with the electrical, move on to the fuel.
First thing to check is that whether there is an uninterrupted supply of gasoline to the carburetor. Irregular or interrupted fuel delivery can be caused by a clogged pick-up filter within the gas tank, a plugged or dirty in-line or in-carburetor filter, a crimped fuel line, a defective or leaking fuel pump, a leak at the vacuum tank, or even an empty, or near empty fuel tank.
Check the entire engine for vacuum leaks. An open vacuum line, such as a cracked line, a line plug that has come loose, or a disconnected line, can all allow air to enter the engine and cause a lean condition. You can often locate vacuum leaks by sound a ‘whooshing’ sound or by selectively spraying engine starting fluid or brake cleaner around the suspected leak. Pay attention, and don’t neglect the intake manifold gasket, the carburetor base, and joints between sections of the carburetor and the windshield wiper line.
Next, check and tighten the lines and screws on the vacuum tank. Follow each vacuum line to be sure that it is connected or plugged. If it feels loose, hard, or is otherwise suspect, replace the line and then again check with the aerosol spray. You may sometimes find that the entire rough idling problem is not the carburetor but just an open vacuum line.
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